Fitting a New Soft Top to a 105 Spider
A new soft top transforms a tired Spider, and most of the job is careful gluing rather than heavy work. This guide covers the adjustments that fix most leaks and wind noise, then removing the old top and fitting a new one.
Our IN064 tops fit all Spiders from 1970 to 1993, but fixings can vary slightly on earlier and later cars, so check yours as you strip it. Allow a full day plus glue drying time.
Parts you need from Classic Alfa
The core kit costs £487.00 at current prices with a black top. You only need one top: black, dark blue, beige or ruby.
| Part | Code | Qty per car | Price each | What it does |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Soft top, Spider 1970 to 1993, black | IN064 | 1 | £460.00 | German Sonnenland mohair top with tensioning straps included |
| Soft top, Spider 1970 to 1993, dark blue | IN064/1 | Option | £490.00 | Same top in dark blue, instead of black |
| Soft top, Spider 1970 to 1993, beige | IN064/2 | Option | £490.00 | Same top in beige, instead of black |
| Soft top, Spider 1970 to 1993, ruby | IN064/3 | Option | £530.00 | Same top in ruby, instead of black |
| Soft top front seal | RB027 | 1 | £27.00 | Seals the front of the top against the top of the windscreen |
Worth replacing while you're in there:
| Part | Code | Qty per car | Price each | Why |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Front seal channel | RB028 | 1 | £22.00 | The metal channel the front seal sits in |
| Soft top tensioner | IN066/1 | 2 | £18.50 | Adjusts the cable tension |
| Soft top frame header rail | IN138 | 1 | £160.00 | Original rails often rust and collapse inside |
| Soft top anti-rattle strap | IN137 | 2 | £6.50 | Holds the clamps still, up or down |
| Soft top corner protector | IN191 | 2 | £9.50 | Stainless trim behind each side window opening |
Tools and consumables
- Drill with a 1/8 inch (3.2 mm) bit and a pop rivet gun with 1/8 inch rivets
- Phillips screwdrivers, 7, 8, 10 and 12 mm spanners and an 8 mm nut driver
- An awl, and a length of stiff mechanic's wire for the cables
- Neoprene contact adhesive, a 1 inch brush and solvent
- Silicone spray, scissors, chalk and sponge foam
- Wing covers, dust sheets and a vacuum
Know the parts
Outside and underneathOn the outside, the top piping runs along the front and sides, the side flap seals against the side window, the vent frame is the chrome frame at the front of the door glass, and the chrome edge guide sits above the door jamb. Underneath, the top sits on the front and main crossmembers and the frame side supports, with a cable along each side tensioned by a turnbuckle.
Before you replace it: fixing leaks and noise
1. Check the window height.If the top of the glass sits higher than the vent frame, it pinches the piping when the door shuts and lets water in. From outside you'll see the glass pushing into the piping.
2. Reset the window stops.Take the door trim off, roll up the plastic rain sheet and lower the window. Replace any missing rubber stopper. If a stop bracket is bent, loosen the 10 mm bolt and nut and straighten it. Then loosen the 10 mm nuts and move the stops until the glass is level with the top of the vent frame.
3. Check the height and fit.With the window up and the door shut, the glass should line up with the top of the vent frame and the piping should sit on the glass without being crushed.
4. Move the window in or out.If the height is right but the glass doesn't press against the side flap, take off the small triangular access cover low on the front of the door. Reach in with a 10 mm spanner, loosen the track nuts, move the tracks and tighten. Shut the door and check again.
5. Check the side flap seal.The side flap should sit over the windscreen post. Sit inside with the top latched and the door shut. A little daylight between the vent frame and the post means the weather strip needs packing; a large gap means the vent frame needs moving.
6. Pack the weather strip.Lower the roof, undo the latch retainer and guide with a Phillips screwdriver and lift off the corner moulding. Push a strip of sponge foam about 1/4 inch square and 5 inches long into the hollow of the weather strip, gluing the last 1/2 inch. Refit everything and check again. If the gap is too big for foam, take off the door panel and upper trim panel, loosen the four vent frame bolts, move the frame and retighten.
7. Put the door back together.Refit the access covers and rain sheet. Don't overtighten the upper trim panel screws or the trim wrinkles. Line up the four clips before fitting the door panel's five screws, and start all three armrest screws before tightening any.
8. Fix wind noise at the front.Drumming usually means the front piping isn't touching the windscreen header all the way along. To correct this problem you will need to lower the top, remove the front corner bolts, front gasket & retainer, and reposition and reglue the top (see the fitting steps).
9. Hard to latch?File the stop block on that side down a little and touch in the bare metal with black paint. You can also loosen the three frame bracket bolts and lower that side of the frame to take tension off the top.
10. Chafe marks.White marks above the crossmembers come from careless folding. Recolour them with soft top dye, fold the top with care and brush it regularly.
Removing the old top
1. Remove the chrome edge guides.With the top up and latched, undo the Phillips screws holding the guide above each door jamb.
2. Remove the carpet and retainer strips.Remove the carpet screws along the rear water channel (eight on a Series 3), fold the carpet down and lift the vinyl trim. Undo the 8 mm nuts holding the side and rear retainer strips (twenty-two on a Series 3) and lift off the strips and trim.
3. Free the sides.Drill out the three 1/8 inch rivets on each side support. Fold back the side flaps, pull out the rivet backing plates and peel the fabric off. Redrill the plates to clear old rivet.
4. Release the cables.Unlatch the roof. On each side slide off the vinyl cable cover, undo the 7 mm locknut and take off the tensioner spring. Bag them up, you reuse them.
5. Remove the upper cable guides.Straighten each cable, pull it up out of the turnbuckle and remove the upper cable guide with a 7 mm spanner.
6. Peel off the crossmember overlays.With the roof latched, peel the cloth overlays off the three crossmembers. Use pliers to start them if you must.
7. Undo the front corners.Fold the roof back, remove the 7 mm nuts at each front corner and take the flat-headed T-bolts out of their pockets.
8. Release the front edge.Pull the rubber seal out of its channel. Drill out the six channel rivets and the two side flap rivets, clear up every shaving, and peel the fabric off the front of the frame.
9. Pull out the cables.Draw the cables out of the sleeves without kinking them and lift the top off.
10. Clean up.Strip old adhesive off the frame with solvent and clear every rivet hole. Vacuum the water channel and check the four drain holes and hoses are clear.
Fitting the new top
Leave the protective film on the rear window until you've finished, and cover the wings and seats before you open the adhesive.
1. Thread the cables.Lay the new top over the raised frame. Hook a length of mechanic's wire into the rear of each cable sleeve, push it through, tape a loop in the cable, hook it on and pull it back. Feed the cable down through the side support.
2. Position and glue the front edge.Pull the top over the front of the frame and latch it: the piping should press on the windscreen header all the way across. Fold the roof back, brush a thin coat of contact adhesive on the front of the frame and press the flap down with the piping on the inside edge. Recheck the fit, then leave it at least 30 minutes.
3. Fit the seal channel and seal.Find the eight rivet holes through the fabric with an awl and pop rivet the channel down with the heads fully flat. Spray the seal with silicone and slide it in, rolled lip forward, leaving about 5 inches spare each end.
4. Trim the seal ends.Chalk an L-shaped cutout starting 1 1/2 inches from the end of the channel, cut it with scissors and push 1 to 2 inches of sponge foam into each hollow end.
5. Fix the rear edge.Push the holes along the back of the top over the water channel studs, refit the three vinyl trims (unglued side to the fabric) and the retainer strips. Start the 8 mm nuts but don't tighten yet.
6. Glue the crossmember overlays.With the roof latched, centre each crossmember between its overlays. Brush adhesive on the crossmember and the overlays and let it go tacky. Fold the first overlay over from the middle out, then the second over it. Don't pull down or the top will dimple.
7. Fix the sides.Glue each side support, pull the corner taut and press the flap on. Glue the backing plate into the fold, line up the holes with an awl and fit three 1/8 inch pop rivets.
8. Fix the front corners.With the top up but unlatched, pierce the side flap in line with the corner rivet hole, latch and check the flap covers the post seal. Pierce the seal end and flap pocket, fit the T-bolt in the pocket, rivet the flap to the frame and tighten the nut with a 7 mm spanner.
9. Tighten the rear and refit the carpet.Raise and latch the roof. Fit the front screw of each side retainer strip, tighten all the 8 mm nuts and screw the carpet back in.
10. Rebuild and tension the turnbuckles.Slide on the upper cable guide, pass the cable through the turnbuckle, fit the spring and 7 mm locknut and refit the cover. Loosen the 12 mm nut, wind the turnbuckle down by hand to tension the cable, retighten, and lock the guide about 1/2 inch above the turnbuckle.
11. Refit the chrome edge guides.Find the screw hole with an awl and screw each guide on. They're tapered, so keep left and right on the correct sides.
Tips and common mistakes
- Go easy with the adhesive. Excess runs out and stains the headlining for good.
- Let the glue go tacky before folding the overlays, or they'll slide and leave crooked seams.
- Check every pop rivet in the front channel sits flat. A raised head will split the new seal.
- Don't kink the cables when you pull them out or thread them back in.
- Fold the top carefully every time. Most chafe marks come from careless folding.
Ready to start?
Everything in the parts list is available at classicalfa.com. We ship internationally, including to the EU, Australia and the USA. Not sure which parts suit your car? Send us an email with your model and year and we'll check.